​I have always been fascinated by the thought of making an item that most people would never even consider making themselves. This recipe was developed when I worked at the Norwich Inn in Norwich, VT. We got into a rather obsessive groove making all different types of sausages; fresh, cured, smoked, traditional, trendy….it didn’t matter. If it could be ground and stuffed into a casing, we made it. We spent 3 weeks perfecting the perfect hot dog recipe. As soon as I saw someone squirt some Heinz all over my house made dog, I knew something had to be done.

• • 2 Large Onions, Diced
  • 1/4 Cup of Chopped Garlic
  • 8 Tomatoes, Cored and Diced
  • 4 Cups of Tomato Paste
  • 1 Quart of Cider Vinegar
  • 2 Cups of Water
  • 1 Cup Golden Raisins
  • 1 Cup Molasses
  • 1 Cup Brown Sugar
  • 2T Allspice
  • 1/4 Cup Worcestershire Sauce
  • 1 Dried Chipotle Pepper, Whole is fine
  • Pinch of Ground Clove
  • Salt and Pepper

Sweat the onion and garlic until translucent. Add the remaining ingredients and simmer for 1 hour. While the mixture is still hot, puree everything and strain through a fine strainer. Cool to room temperature and check for flavor. Now is the time to adjust seasoning. Cover and chill for service. Its always best to serve this at room temperature…with fries.

Even though its a little early in the season for fennel and a tad late for smoked fish (seasonally anyway), this dish reminds me of spring.  Perhaps I like this salad BECAUSE the ingredients straddle the season so well...maybe its due to my undying love of smoked meats.  Either way, I'm sure you will find this to be a nice first course or perhaps a perfect light lunch.

• 2 cups rice wine vinegar
• 4T sugar
• 2T salt
• 3T pickling spice
• 3 bulbs of fresh fennel, shaved on a slicer or sharp mandolin...the thinner the better
• 1/2 cup chopped parsley
• 1 1/2 lb of smoked mackerel, I like Ducktrap brand.  Peppered is my favorite.

Combine the rice vinegar, sugar, salt and pickling spice in a small pot.  Bring to just a boil.  Strain the hot liquid over the shaved fennel, toss to combine and then cool to room temperature.  Drain any excess liquid from the now pickled fennel and toss with the parsley.  Chill.
With your fingers gently flake the smoked mackerel onto a plate.  The exact size of the flakes of the fish is really up to you but I like large pieces for both mouth texture and presentation purposes.  
Place a tight pile of the pickled fennel onto the center of the plate.  Scatter about 3 oz of the fennel throughout the plate.  Drizzle with some extra virgin olive oil if you have it.

First used when I worked at the Hanover Inn in Hanover, NH, this rub has made it on the menu of every place I have worked since.  This is a great go-to spice rub for bold, flavorful meats…I prefer to use it on whole roasts rather than individual portions.  However you choose to use it, do resist the temptation to make a batch ahead of time.

• 1 Cup Fresh Ground Black Peppercorns
  
• 1 Cup Fresh Ground Espresso
  
• 1/2 Cup Dark Brown Sugar
  
• 1/4 Cup Smoked Salt
  

Mix all the ingredients until well blended.  Rub evenly over entire piece of meat.  Let the rub rest on the roast for at least an hour to allow the sugar and salt to react to the product.  However you finish your product, use high heat to help form a nice crust.

 

Since culinary school, I have been keeping a notebook, many notebooks at this point, of recipes, proportions and food combinations that I found useful.  If you were to look at my notebooks you would know that you reached a particularly successful recipe by the appearance of the page.  If the page had side notes or indiscriminate food stains clouding notes, then you will know that page was referenced often.  As a young chef, I was very possessive of my notebook;  never leaving it unattended.  Nowadays, I am happy to share the contents…I usually have to translate though.

Up until this blog, these notebooks are as close to a diary that I have every known.  The pictures below are from a menu brainstorming session most likely while sitting at the bar after service.  Those times after service, when the area chefs would get together to talk shop with whoever hadn't managed to leave, were always very special to me.  Regardless of rank or pedigree, everyone was equal.  I miss moments like that the most.